WA Mourvedre vs. Bandol

The South of France has some of the more appealing weather this time of year.  That is reflected in the number of races happening in the Provence region in February.  In the past few weeks the Tour de Mediterranean and Tour la Provence both took place.

For the most part these races are an opportunity for the seasoned pros to stretch their legs and test their fitness.  The neo-pros seize these early season races as their chance to prove they are worthy of bigger contracts and possible team captain opportunities in the future.

The veterans ruled the day at both races with Thomas Voeckler taking the overall at the Tour la Provence, while Andriy Grivko claiming victory at the Mediterranean.

This week's challenge pits a Washington Mourvedre against Bandol.

2010 McCrea Cellars Mourvedre v. 2012 Domaine Sorin Mourvedre

WA Mourvedre v. Bullas Monastrell

The Vuelta Espana is nearing completion and this year's edition has seen plenty of drama as well as a unique route through the Spanish countryside.  The Vuelta always seems to come in third out of the three grand tours (the Tour de France and Giro d'Italia are typically considered #1 and #2 respectively).  That means the Vuelta organizers are always looking for ways to draw more interest to their race.

Oftentimes, that means an unusually high number of mountain top finishes combined with a unique route through Spain.  This year followed the same formula with eight mountain top finishes and a route that started in South West Spain before heading East and North.

The first segment of racing concluded in South Eastern Spain near the Bullas DO wine region.  The pro bike racers are typically on a very strict diet during these three week bike races.  However, with a day off, I'm sure the racers all probably relaxed a bit and enjoyed a glass of Monastrell on their first rest day. 

Monastrell is the Spanish version of Mourvedre.  So, this week's Lucha Vino match up features a Washington Mourvedre taking on a Spanish Monastrell from the Bullas DO.

2013 Kerloo Cellars Mourvedre v. 2009 Bodegas del Rosario Tesoro Monastrell

Battle Royale: Washington vs France

The first stage race of the season in France took place last week through Provence.  The Tour de Med is a 6 stage race that tours through South East France.

This week's matchup features a Southern France inspired wine from Robert Ramsay taking on "the King" of Bandol, a Mourvedre dominant mauler.

2010 Robert Ramsay Par la Mer v. 2010 Domaine Tempier Bandol

Washington Mourvedre v. Southern Rhone

This last week has been explosive for pro cycling.  The covers were blown off and the mystery of doping was laid bare with the USADA's reasoned decision against Lance Armstrong.  Most people wanted to believe that the majority of the pro peloton was racing clean.  Sadly, it turns out that most continued to use banned substances even after the Festina Affair blew up at the 1998 Tour de France.

This week's challenge keeps up with the Mystery theme matching up a Garagiste Mystery Wine from the Southern Rhone against a Mystery Wine from Walla Walla.

2010 Renegade Wine Co. Mourvedre v. 2008 Calendal  Plan de Dieu

Washington GSM v. Cotes du Rhone

This past weekend featured the World Championship Time Trial and Road Races for men and women.  This is a time of year where you might discover some up and coming talent. It is also a time to see if any of the old guard still have anything left in the tank to push for the coveted rainbow stripes that represent the World Champion.

The racing is a bit different than usual since the teams are all based on nations rather than the usual trade teams in the pro tour.  You get some unusual pairings working to set one another up to win the road race and wear the World Champion Jersey for the next 12 months.  This year's winner, Philippe Gilbert, was supported by one of his primary rivals in the one day classics - Tom Boonen.  Their strategy worked to perfection and Gilbert dropped all his rivals on the final climb up the famous Cauberg and taking the victory and bringing the World Championship home to Belgium for the 26th time.

This past Friday was Grenache day, an up and coming red grape variety found around the world.  In honor of Grenache Day and the surprises that can be found in the World Championship Road Races I opened a Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre blend from Washington to take on a Cotes du Rhone.

This matchup featured very little Southern Hospitality and a whole lot of Dirty South.

2008 Nota Bene Una Note v. 2007 Ch. Simian Jocandez Cotes du Rhone

Guest Post: California Mourvedre v. Spanish Monastrell

This week Lucha Vino features a guest post from his tag team partner, Foxall, from down South in California.  So the matchup features California v. Spain.  This is a great match read on!

The Vuelta a Espana closed today with a relative unknown—Juan Jose Cobo—winning the race.  He was expected to ride in support of two other, more famous riders: Denis Menchov, who has finished on the podium at the Tour de France a couple times, and Carlos Sastre, who actually won the Tour in 2006.  Further, he’s a native Spaniard, who wasn’t even the “favored” Spaniard in the race.  Here’s a good article about his road to the win: http://velonews.competitor.com/2011/09/news/cobos-long-strange-trip-to-vuelta-lead_191090

In that spirit, we have our competitors in my guest appearance on LuchaVino.  The grape in question is a relative unknown compared to its better known teammates in Southern Rhone blends, where it appears in elite Chateauneuf  du Pape, but rarely steps out on its own, unlike Grenache and Syrah.  It’s a native of Spain, although not the more famous of the native varieties—in fact, it’s not even well-known by its Spanish name, and people aren’t always sure what to call it. In Australia, the “M” in GSM blends is usually called “mataro,” although it’s the same grape.  Most people think of it as mourvedre, but its origin lies in Spain, near the town of Murviedra.

Stepping into the ring, fraternal twins, one going by Monastrell, and one going by Mourvedre. 

First luchador is Juan Gil Monastrell, from the Spanish D.O. of Jumilla.  In the other corner, Cline Ancient Vines Mourvedre, from Contra Costa County, California.

(Sorry, Washingtonians, but it’s not easy getting your wines down here, and the Spanish varietals that you grow pretty well?  Forget it.  The best publicity that Washington Tempranillo gets comes courtesy of this blog.  Believe me, I tried.  I can get wine from the Canary Islands more easily.  Now, back to the match!)

Tale of the Tape:

Juan Gil Jumilla Red Wine 2008.  100% Monastrell estate grown from 40 year old vines, aged 12 months in French Oak Barrels.  15% ABV. $14 at WineMine in Oakland, CA, but widely available in the US after getting plaudits from Wine Spectator a while back.

Cline Cellars, Ancient Vines Mourvedre, Contra Costa County 2010. All Mourvedre from a vineyard they have sourced for many years, although Cline’s holdings are mostly in Sonoma County. 14.5% ABV.  $14 at K&L Wines, can also be purchased at CostPlus World Market for the same.

Round 1: First Opening:

The Cline has notes of leather in its aroma, and tastes of the same.  There’s hints of dry wood (not a good sign), black tea, and sour cherry.  The finish isn’t long at all. 

The Juan Gil, never mind the French Oak, smells of violets.  The taste is leathery, in a good way, but it’s not showing much.  Not a long finish here, either.

Neither wine is showing the barnyard-y, bretty, odors or tastes that can mar or enhance mourvedre/monastrell/mataro depending on your tastes and the intensity of that brettiness.

Almost too close to call, but the slightly bigger character of the Cline gives it an edge.  But just.

Round Two, one hour after opening:

Now the Cline is showing a hint of coffee—this wine definitely has a bitter edge.  There’s still that hint of dry wood, a taste and smell I remember from replacing some floor joists that suffered dry rot.  The leather notes are still there.  This wine isn’t improving greatly and any arguments about fruit bombs can end right here:  Although it’s the younger of the two wines, almost nothing except the earlier sour cherry said anything remotely about fruit.  The label says it will age for five to seven years, but maybe that’s because it won’t lose any fruit.  There is more than a bit of tannin, but possibly from stems or seeds, and it’s a little clumsy.

Meanwhile, the Gil has opened up, with a richer mouthfeel, a little savory edge, and just a whole bed of floral notes.  My wife is all over this, like Brett Ashley on the bullfighter in “The Sun Also Rises.” I’m enjoying the velvety notes, the taste of sloes, the warm blackberries.   I’ve had this wine before in other vintages and am enjoying watching it unfold again. 

Huge advantage this round to the Gil.

Round Three, Three hours after opening:

No change to the aroma of the Cline, but it’s gained a little umami in the flavor, that savory, mushroomy taste.  The  Gil has developed a little menthol or camphor in the nose and the mid-palate.  It’s pleasant, not overwhelmingly medicinal as that can get, and a little minty in that vein.  But it tastes a little hot, and the flavor is going flat.

Slight edge to the Cline.

Wrap Up and Overall Conclusions:

The middle round was decisive for the Gil, and I would recommend that any purchaser NOT decant it.  Drink it in a group big enough to finish it off within a couple hours.  Both were competent, this version of the Gil not as good as some other vintages.  Cline offers some solid wines, including a GSM blend called “Cashmere” that raises money for breast cancer research, and a Syrah that is good for the money from Sonoma County.  I’m guessing neither is a long ager, but at these prices, you buy it now.  I give the Gil 87 points (my wife would give it more, but she only tasted it at the peak), and the Cline 85.

Washington Mourvedre v. Spanish Monastrell

The Vuelta Espana started on Saturday with a Team Time Trial (TTT)   If you have Universal Sports on your TV you can watch all the stages (live and replayed).  There are lots of other Internet Video Streaming feeds too.  Check out CyclingFans.com It is a good source for streaming video and details about the races.

The first week of the race is through South East Spain where the red variety Monastrell is the predominant grape.  I wonder what type of "recovery drink" the racers will be enjoying?

The first Vuelta Espana Lucha Vino matchup features a 2008 Bodegas Castano Hecula Monastrell v. 2008 McCrea Cellars Mourvedre

Tale of the Tape

Bodegas Castano Hecula Monastrell

100% Monastrell from the Yecla D.O.

Purchased from Bin 41 for $12.

McCrea Cellars Mourvedre

76% Mourvèdre, 20% Syrah, 4% Grenache from the Ciel du Cheval, Elephant Mountain and Sugarloaf vineyards in Red Mountain and the Yakima Valley AVAs.

Purchased from McCrea Cellars at the Urban Enoteca tasting room for $28.

Round 1.  First Opening:

The Hecula has a nose that is earthy, with pungent minerals and dark stone fruit.  The palate is mostly currant with some cedar notes and a dry cherry bark finish.

McCrea's Mourvedre is showing a nose of smoked meat, pepper, earth, cedar spice and dark red fruit.  The palate is black cherry, Asian spice and a touch of cedar cigar box with a dry finish featuring notes of all spice.

The Monastrell is down to earth, coming into the ring firing with both barrels.  The McCrea Cellars Mourvedre is more layered and complex easily taking round 1 with a variety of kung fu moves.

Round 2.  One hour after Opening

The Hecula nose is showing some interesting notes of camp fire, funk and red fruit.  The palate is cherries, menthol and dry cedar spice that clings on to a dry finish.

The Mourvedre has a nose of smoked meat, salt n peppa and some cedar spice.  The palate is still showing currant, Asian spice and a cedar spicebox finish.

The Hecula Monastrell has built up some more interest on the nose and the palate while the Mourvedre has evolved slightly from the first round.  This round was closer with the McCrea Mourvedre barely hanging on to take the second round.

Round 3. One day later

The Hecula has a nose of ark red fruit and earth.  The palate is currants, black cherry, cedar and spices.  The finish is dry cedar and spice.

The McCrea is showing a funky dark fruit nose with a palate of black cherry and some slight bitterness that lingers on to the finish that is dry and dominated by cherry bark.

Both Luchadors lost some of their swagger over night with the McCrea losing quite a bit of its complexity.

Round three goes to the Hecula Monastrell.

Wrap up and over all observations

Being a simple-minded Luchador, I had no idea that Monastrell and Mourvedre are the same grape.  So, I learned something new during this match.  I also learned that there is not very much Mourvedre growing in Washington.

The final score was McCrea 2 and Hecula 1.  I have to say that this was another match that was closer than the final score.  Also, the Spanish Monastrell put up a huge fight against the WA State Mourvedre that cost more than twice as much as the Monastrell.  The Monastrell may have also been at a disadvantage since the McCrea Mourvedre had some hidden Syrah and Grenache tag team partners.  Before you cry foul, remember nobody ever said wrestling was fair!

I give the McCrea Mourvedre an 87 and the Hecula Monastrell an 86.