Washington Sangiovese vs. Chianti Classico

The Strade Bianchi is an Italian one day race that kicks off the early season bike racing with exceptional style!  

This year's edition did not disappoint with one of the most dynamic young riders, Tom Pidcock, winning the race.  Pidcock is a mountain bike and cyclocross world champion that is bringing his game to the road racing circuit.  He announced his road racing potential at last year's Tour de France with a historic win on the Alpe de Huez.

On to this year's first Lucha Vino challenge with a match up between a Washington Sangiovese flexing muscle up against a Italian Chianti Classico.

2018 Mellisoni Lake Chelan Sangiovese v. 2017 Carpineto Chianti Classico Riserva.

Tale of the Tape

Mellisoni 2018 Lake Chelan Sangiovese

100% Sangiovese from 8 year old vines planted on the upper slopes of the Mellisoni Lake Chelan estate vineyard.  Harvested September 23rd at 24.5 Brix and pH 3.49.  

Aged for 22 months in Seguin Moreau French Oak, 50% New & 50% Once Used with an additional 2 months of bottle age.

2017 Carpineto Chianti Classico Riserva 

Made from Sangiovese, Canaiolo and other red grape varietals.  Aged in Slovanian and French oak barrels of various sizes for a year or longer.

Washington Sangiovese vs. Chianti Classico

With the World Cup causing a delay in the start of le Tour, we are given some time to pause and reflect on the first grand tour of the year – The Giro d’Italia.

The Giro always offers plenty of intrigue and dynamic racing.  The race occurs early enough in the year that many of the mountain passes are still covered in snow.  In addition to the weather, the organizers are always striving to deliver something new and innovative in attempts to one up the French!

This year’s race brought plenty of drama, most of it focused squarely on Chris Froome.  Not so much for his racing, but for his elongated battle over illegal levels of Salbutamol found in his system during last year’s Vuelta Espana.  Froome crashed in the first stage of this year's Giro, shed additional time in the early mountain stages and then made a miraculous come back to win the overall classification.

This week’s Lucha Vino matchup features a Washington Sangiovese taking on the grand champion of Italian Grapes, a Chianti Classico

2014 Mellisoni Sangiovese v. 2013 Brolio Chianti Classico Riserva

Washington Sangiovese vs. Chianti Classico

Any cyclist that has ever raced a criterium or cyclocross race is familiar with one of the final warnings given by the race official "Don't ride backward on the course!"  I'm not sure I have ever heard an official at a road race give the same warning.

So, what does that have to do with this week's Lucha Vino challenge?  I'm riding backward on the 2017 Giro d' Italia course!  My journey started in Piedmont and now I am tracing the route backward to Tuscany.

Stage 11 starts in Firenze (Florence) and travels East to Bagno di Romagna and includes five climbs along the way.  These types of stages are often the places that separate the men from the boys, the contenders from the pretenders, the climbers from the sprinters...  You get the picture.

This week's Lucha Vino match up features a Washington Sangiovese taking on a Chianti Classico from Tuscany.  Which one of these Luchadors will prove to be mightier than the other?

2014 Casa Smith Sangiovese v. 2013 Felsina Chianti Classico

Washington Sangiovese vs. Chianti

The Giro d' Italia is going full gas coming into the conclusion of one full week of racing.  The 8th stage finished in Tuscany on Saturday.  Gianluca Brambilla took a solo stage victory after going on a long range attack.  Not only did he win the stage, he also moved into the Maglia Rosa taking the overall lead in his home country's grand tour.

This week's matchup honors the brash style and panache' of riders willing to put it all on the line for a chance at victory.  Washington Sangiovese takis on a long range challenger from Chianti.

Mellisoni Vineyards 2013 Sangiovese v. Travignoli 2006 Chianti Rufina Riserva

Washington Sangiovese v. Tuscany

The pro race season kicked into high gear with the Strade Bianchi last Saturday.  Even though it is a relatively new race on the calendar, the Strade Bianchi has already become a favorite.  And, really, who could resist racing your bike through Tuscany's vineyards?  I would be tempted to stop along the way for a sample.  Or two...

The race features 10 sections of white dirt roads (the Strade Bianchi) over the course of 200 kilometers concluding in Sienna with a short, wicked, up hill finish.  This year featured sunny skies and dry weather.  The scenery was stunning, just like the wines from the Tuscany region of Italy.  The race was stunning as well with an exciting finish featuring three men that got away from a small bunch of riders late in the race.

This is one of my favorite races of the year.  It marks the beginning of the one day classics racing season.  It features great style (what else could you expect from Italy?), beautiful rolling terrain, vineyards and Tuscan villages.  It is also a great opportunity for the Lucha Vino challenge to explore the excellent Italian wines of Tuscany.

Making the 2015 edition of the race even better is the return of Eight Bells Sangiovese to defend the title it won last year.

Eight Bells 2012 Sangiovese v. Ruffino 2011 Riserva Ducale Chianti Classico

Tale of the Tape

 Eight Bells 2012 Sangiovese

100% Sangiovese from the Red Willow vineyard located in the Yakima Valley AVA

Provided as a sample by the winery and available at retail for $20.







Ruffino 2011 Riserva Ducale Chianti Classico

80% Sangiovese. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon make up the remaining 20%

Aged for 24 months in Oak, Stainless and Concrete vats with an additional 3 months in bottle.

Provided as a sample for a recent Virtual Snooth Tasting.  This wine is available for $24 at retail.









Round 1.  First Opening

The Ruffino certainly has a style and swagger to it right from the start!  Unbeknownst to the officials, this Italian luchador snuck some Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon into the ring.  The nose is earthy with hints of cedar and light red berry notes that remind me of huckleberries and strawberries.  The palate is dry and herbal showing dried strawberry, rose petals with nice acidity and a slightly spicy finish.  

Eight Bells is taking the battle straight at the Tuscan challenger.  The nose features dried cherries, flowers and light herbal notes along with some citrus spices.  The palate doubles down on the dried cherries and throws in some herbal menthol spice notes for good measure.  The finish grabs your attention with light spices and a great streak of acidity.

Ruffino takes the first round.  The additional aging (and Merlot/Cab in the blend) made the difference in this early round.

Round 2.  One hour later

The Ruffino Chianti Classico appears to be getting a bit over confident, playing to the crowd and not paying close attention to the Eight Bells Champion.  The nose is getting richer with shades of cherry, raspberry and dusty tobacco spices.  The palate is similar with dried herbal spice notes that carry over to the finish.

The Eight Bells Champion is not going down without a fight.  The champion drops into the ring from the top rope with a devastating flying body slam that takes the overconfident Ruffino luchador by complete surprise!  The nose is continuing to develop with notes of herbal citrus and dried flowers followed by cherry and  light cedar spices.  The palate is showing dried tart cherries and rose petals, cedar spices and firm acidity that all carry over to the finish.

Eight Bells takes round two.

Round 3.  One day later

This is it.  The match is all tied up and it looks like the Eight Bells Champion is prepared to go the distance.  Let's see what the Tuscan challenger has in store.

The Ruffino luchador is showing some good stamina.  The nose shows herbal, slightly earthy dried cherries and a touch of cedar spices.  The palate continues to display dried cherries and sweet tobacco leaf spices that are complimented by a finish that concludes with tart, spicy tobacco leaf notes.

Eight Bells is switching things up.  You can never underestimate the heart of a champion.  The nose is getting darker with funky, earthy aromas, cherries and light earthy herbal spices.  The palate shows cherries, dried herbs and light white pepper that repeats on a dry finish.

Eight Bells proves to be a worthy champion, taking round 3 and the the match with a 2-1 final score.

Wrap up and overall observations.

This was a great matchup.  Both of these wines are great values in the $20-$25 range.  If you can find them, I would highly recommend picking up a bottle (or two or three).

Both wines showed great acidity through all three rounds and would be a great companion to a number of different dishes.

Salud!

WA Sangiovese v. Chianti Classico

After a few days in Ireland the pro cyclists boarded several airplanes to fly to the far South of Italy to start the Giro d'Italia properly last week.  They followed a route that went Southwest and then made a hard right turn and started North.  The route covered a variety of DOCs that feature the Sangiovese grape.  The route also featured a high number of crashes and top rider casualties.  This year's race has been a bit weird...

This week's Lucha Vino challenge pays tribute to Italy's grand grape, Sangiovese.

2011 Kaella Sangiovese v. 1995 Fattoria de Falsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva

Washington Sangiovese v. Chianti Classico

In the immortal words of George Castanza... "I'm back baby!"  I have been on a bit of a hiatus from wine writing the past 6 months.  Now that I have completed my Executive Leadership Program at Seattle University it is time to get back to the wine business.

March is a great time to return too.  It is Washington Wine Month AND one of the most stylish one day races takes place in Tuscany during the first weeks of March.  The Strade Bianche covers nearly 200 kilometers that include 10 sections of white dirt and gravel roads.  The strade bianche cover 54 of the 200 kilometers and make for some interesting racing.

This week's Lucha Vino matchup honors Italian bike racing flare with a classic Yakima Valley Sangiovese from Eight Bells winery taking on an old Chianti Classico from Tuscany.

2010 Eight Bells Sangiovese v. 2009 Villa Cafaggio Chianti Classico

WA Super Tuscan Style v. The Maestro

The Italians know how to live life with a certain flair.  This weekend's Strade Bianche was a prime example.  This 190 km one day race sends the pro bike racers across 57 km of unique white gravel roads in Tuscany, hence the name Strade Bianche.

In terms of the One Day Classic Races, the Strade Bianche is an infant.  This is just the seventh edition of the race and, surprisingly, no Italian had won the race.  Until this past Saturday when Moreno Moser took the race by storm attacking the main peleton on the final gravel road section.  He bridged to the remainders of the day's break away in the race's final 10 kilometers and then bided his time, finally attacking on the final climb leading into the Piazza del Campo.  Ultimately, soloing to victory and driving the Italian Tofosi into a frenzy.

This week's challenge honors Italian style and the strade bianchi with a Super Tuscan matchup.

2007 Brian Carter Tuttorosso v. 2009 Antonio Sanguineti Nessun Dorma Maestro Super Tuscan

Washington Sangiovese v. Emilia Romagna

With all the recent doping controversies you have to wonder at the UCI sanctioning a memorial race for Marco Pantani, aka Il Pirata.  Pantani was extremely popular (and successful) as a professional bike racer in the 90s and the early 2000s.  His career was shadowed by rumors and allegations of performance enhancing drug use.  He was suspended several times and made a number of comebacks.  Unfortunately, he was personally tormented by the accusations and fell in to recreational drug abuse.  Il Pirata died of a cocaine overdose in 2004.

The memorial Marco Pantani road race began the same year of Pantani's death and the latest edition was held this weekend in central Italy covering 183 km from Pantani's hometown of Cesenatico to Cesena, his birthplace.

2007 Tulpen Sangiovese v. Drei Dona 2007 Notturno Sangiovese

Washington Sangiovese v. Montepulciano d'Abruzzo

Once the Giro d' Italia hit Italy the racing got more interesting.  For me, one of the most exciting things is seeing North American riders spending more days in the Maglia Rosa than any other continent.  First Taylor Phinney of the USA and then Ryder Hesjedal from Canada have spent multiple days in the race leader's pink jersey.  Hesjedal is the first Canadian to ever wear the leader's jersey in the Giro and is a prime contender to win the overall when the race finishes up in Milan in another two weeks.

The route has been heading South along the Eastern edge of Italy.  The riders have raced through Emilia Romagna, Marches, Abruzzo and Molise wine regions.

This week the Lucha Vino challenge features a Montpulciano d'Abruzzo battling with a Washington State Sangiovese.  Celebrating Ryder Hesjedal, the first Canadian to wear the Maglia Rosa, this week's matchup is the first to pit two different grape varieties against one another.

2004 Kiona Reserve Sangiovese v. 2008 Nicodemi Montepulciano d'Abruzzo

Washington Sangiovese vs. Chianti

You can't argue with Italian style and this past weekend the Strade Bianche proved that point.  Italy hosted one of the coolest and most stylish one day races of the year in Tuscany last weekend.  The Strade Bianche includes 8 stretches of white gravel and dirt roads making up 70 kilometres of the 190 total km in the race, hence the name.  Depending on the weather it can be a dust storm or a mud bath for the racers.

This Saturday's race was dry and challenging (like a one day classic should be).  There were many strategic moves made by Team Radio Shack with Fabian Cancellara making the final decisive move soloing to victory from 10k to go in the race.  Cancellara won this race in 2008 and destroyed the Belgian Spring Classics in 2010.  He is also a multi-time world champion in the Time Trial discipline, so it is no surprise when he tears the legs off the rest of the field like he did in this year's Strade Bianche.

This week's Lucha Vino Challenge features a Sangiovese from Washington taking on a Chianti Challenger from Tuscany.  Let's see if one of these Luchadors tears apart its opponent!

2008 Covington Cellars Sangiovese v. 2006 Castello di Bossi Chianti Classico

Tale of the Tape

2008 Covington Cellars Sangiovese

100% Sangiovese with the majority from Seven Hills rounded out with fruit from Kiona and Kestrel Vineyards.

Aged in 20% new oak

Purchased at the winery for $25.00

2006 Castello di Bossi Chianti Classico

100% Sangiovese barrel aged for 12 months

Purchased from Garagiste for $16.99














Round 1.  First Opening

The Covington Cellars Sangiovese makes an early introduction with a nose of pie cherry, toasty earth and spices.  The palate is showing tart pie cherry with a super tart finish that includes hints of cedar and spices.  This Washington Sangio seems to be mocking the Italian Challenger by imitating the Chianti's style.

The Castello di Bossi is not amused showing a nose of wet earth, mineral, leather and pie cherries.  The palate fires off with ripe tart red fruit and raspberry with a tart leather finish.

These Luchadors are pretty evenly matched with the Castello di Bossi taking the first round based on complexity in its character and that unmistakable Italian style.

Round 2.  One hour after Opening

Covington has changed styles like a boxer switching form righty to south paw.  Bulking up and getting burly the Covington Crusher is showing a nose of dark red berries, cedar spices and earthy leather.  The palate is full of dark rich fruit finishing with spicy tart cedar character.

The di Bossi has warmed up a bit with a nose featuring pie cherry and Asian spices.  The palate is primarily tart pie cherries with a very dry tart cedar finish.

Covington Cellars overpowered di Bossi leaving no doubt as to the winner of round two.  This round was so decisive there are shout outs in the arena calling for the "Covington Chianti Crusher."

Round 3. One day after Opening

Heading in to the final round the match is even at 1-1.  Who will rise to the occasion?

The Chianti Crusher is working to live up to its new name continuing to build power with a nose of earthy dark red fruit, leather, a bit of menthol and some shoe polish (in a good way).  The palate is dark currants, clove and eucalyptus spices that really reach out and grab you on the finish with some tart cocoa and espresso notes added for good measure.

The di Bossi is looking slightly dazed and certainly confused.  Staying true to its heritage the di Bossi remains consistent with a nose of dark red cherries and asian cedar spices.  The palate is juicy red cherries full of tartness that ends with a very dry finish.

Style will carry you only so far in the wrestling ring.  Sadly, the di Bossi has learned this lesson the hard way taking some serious punishment from the Covington Chianti Crusher.

Covington Cellars takes the final round winning the match 2 - 1.

Wrap up and over all observations

The young upstart from Washington showed little respect for the Italian challenger in this bout.  The real difference showed up in round two and three.  In round one both of these Luchadors showed very similar styles.  With time (and air) the Sangiovese from Washington developed into a bigger, richer and fuller wine. 

The Castello di Bossi did blossom, but not as dramatically as the Convington Cellars.  You could hear some muted cries from the di Bossi for some food assistance.  The character of the Chianti from Italy makes me think it would make a great partner for a big plate of pasta smothered in marinara sauce.

I give the Covington Cellars Sangiovese an 88 and the Castello di Bossi an 86.

Washington Sangiovese v Italy

The Tour de France starts next weekend so the pros are either fine tuning their fitness or contesting their national championships this week.  Before embarking on a 21 day tour of France I decided to launch a sneak attack through Italy.  This week features a Sangiovese grudge match between a very evil Sangiovese from Washington state and a mysterious Italian Brunello.

Washington State Sangiovese from the Columbia Valley  v. Brunello de Montalcino

RiverAerie 2008 Sangiovese v. 2003 Terralsole Brunello de Montalcino

Tale of the tape

2008 RiverAerie Sangiovese

Google reported the RiverAerie website as trouble, evil with potential to unleash malicious software on my computer.  I know how to avoid evil when I get fair warning.  Luckily I was able to ascertain the following details from the Full Pull Wines offer letter.

Grapes sourced from three vineyards: Two from the Wahluke Slope - Doebler and Jones and Boushey in the Yakima Valley makes three.  Aged in neutral barrels.
Purchased for $16.99 from Full Pull wines.

2003 Terralsole Brunello di Montelcino

Great picture of this Luchador (from 2004), but no other information on the Terralsole website.
Purchased for $26.83 from Garagiste.

It looks like this week's match features Evil v. Mystery.  The Devil you know v. The Devil you don't...  Let's see how this unfolds.

Round 1.  First Opening:

On first opening the RiverAerie has a nose of pie cherry, sour currant, oak, leather and some cedar spice box.  The palate is showing sweet red cherry fruit with drying cedar raspberry and nice peppery spice trailing into the finish.

The Terralsole is showing some classic Sangiovese character on first opening - cherry, dust, leather and a bit of pepper on the nose with a palate of cherry and dry cedar with a semi dry cherry finish.

Evil is much more complex than the Mystery in Round 1.  This one clearly goes to the RiverAerie sauntering into the ring and demonstrating a much bolder approach to this world of Sangiovese.

Round 2.  One hour after Opening

The RiverAerie is going strong in round 2 with a nose of currant, cherry, raspberry and earth with a similar palate that includes a bit of spice and finishes with hints of espresso bean and cocoa.

Terralsole is also stepping up.  The nose is developing a bigger nose of black cherry, dust and leather with a similar palate that leads to a dry cherry bark finish.

Round 2 goes to the Evil Luchador once again.  RiverAerie is taking Sangiovese to places Lucha Vino has not experienced before.  And that spells trouble for our mysterious Italian combatant.

Round 3. One day later

The Evil RiverAerie has lost a bit of punch, but is still showing plenty of evil genius in the form of currant, dust, toast and white pepper on the nose with a palate of bright dark cherry and hints of cedar spice box with a dry lightly spicy finish.

The Terralsole has become more mysterious lurking in the sahdows with a nose that is showing cherry and a bit of oak with cherries and some light cola on the palate that finishes with a bit of drying cedar.

Both Luchadors lost some steam in the third round, but the Terralsole lost more.  The final round goes to the evil genius RiverAerie.

This contest was never in doubt, Evil wins out over Mystery 3 - 0 in a very interesting battle.

Wrap up and over all observations

These Sangioveses were both good and quite different.  The Washington Sangio was much bigger and bolder than what I would typically expect in this varietal.  The Italian Brunello de Montalcino showed much more of the drier cherry driven Sangiovese character 

I give the RiverAerie an 88 and the Terralsole an 86.  Close, but in the end the RiverAerie overpowered the Terralsole.  Nothing fancy, no flash, no tricks, just good old fashioned in your face power.

Washington Sangiovese v. Italy

The Giro d' Italia started on Saturday with a Team Time Trial in the North of Italy and is heading South down the West Coast.  The stage on Tuesday will finish in Livorno, the home town for a friend of mine's family.  The selection for this week is based out of Tuscany - Walla Walla Sangiovese vs. the defacto standard for this grape - Tuscany.  Let the battle begin! 

Washington State Sangiovese v. Italian Sangiovese from Tusscany

2007 5 Star Cellar Sangiovese v. 2007 Felsina Chianti Classico Reserva

Tale of the tape

2007 5 Star Cellar Sangiovese
100% Sangiovese from the Blue Mountain, Pepperbridge and Seven Hills vineyards aged in 2 and 3 year old barrels.
Purchased for $25.50 at Corky Cellars.

2007 Felsina Chiati Classico Resrva
100% Sangiovese barrel aged for 12 months then 3-6 months in the bottle.

Purchased for $25.99 at Esquin (thanks for helping me make the Luchador selection this week). 

Round 1.  First Opening:

Our Luchador from Washington State has quite the swagger due to a close Super Tuscan match back in April and a bottle signed by the wine maker at 5 Star Cellars.  He has even requested a nick name of simply Wx2.  Let's see if Wx2 can deliver on the swagger...

Wx2 is big right from the start with a nose of smoke, toast and bright cherry with some hints of sour peat bog.  The palate is dark cherry and cedar spice with a nice spicy tannic finish that tails off with lots of sweet cherry character.

Felsina is showing lots of oaky character, dark cherry fruit and a bit of baking spice on the nose with a very dry palate that is predominantly light cherry.  The finish is like dry-z-air in your mouth, sucking out most of the moisture.

Round 1 is close, but goes to 5 Star Cellars aka Wx2 

Round 2.  One hour after Opening

Wx2 has built up some more character to match its swagger.  The nose is big black fruit and cherry with lots of oak dominated spice.  The palate is black cherry, baking spice and a bit of toast that leads to a slightly pepper and spicy bold finish.

Felsina develops some more cedar, leather and cinnamon spice on the nose.  The palate is floral, slightly bitter cherry with a slightly spicy finish.

The Felisna Luchador is nimble, light and agile, but no match for the bigger bruising Wx2.

Round 2 is a bit more decisive and goes to 5 Star again.

Round 3. One day later

Wx2 one day later has lost a bit of power, but is still showing significant strength.  The nose is cherry, currant and a bit of leather.  The palate is cherry, slightly sour currants and a long tart pie cherry finish.

Felsina has also mellowed a bit and is showing a nose of cherry, dust and some cedar.  The palate is pretty dry, showing mostly cherry with a finish that has a bit of tart cedar mingled with the cherry.

Round 3 goes to 5 Star Cellars.

Wrap up and over all observations

Another match totally dominated by the Luchador from Washington state.  The Italian Chianti Classico tried to step up, but was no match for the bigger, bolder Luchador from Walla Walla.

Both wines were good representatives of the Sangiovese grape.  The Walla Walla entrant proved to be slightly bigger, much bolder and also had the staying power to follow through on a dominating 3 round performance.

I would rate the Felsina an 86 and the 5 Star Cellars an 88.

A Final Thought

Keep the pro racers, friends and families in your prayers.  Wouter Weylandt died after a fatal crash in Monday's stage of the Giro d' Italia.  Wouter was a very close friend of Tyler Farrar.  Tyler is a pro racer from Wenatchee WA and is one of the top sprinters in the world today.  Tyler is racing in the Giro d' Italia for the Garmin Cervelo team.