Washington Barbera v. Piedmont

Italy is one of the most cycling crazy nations in the world.  The pro race season wraps up with several one day races in Northern Italy in the Piedmont wine region.  If that wasn't reason enough to feature an Italian wine smack down, then the announcement of the 100th edition of the Giro d' Italia certainly is!

The Giro del Piemonte took place at the end of September with Italian Champion Giacomo Nizzolo taking a sprint victory on his home soil.

A few weeks later the route for the 100th edition of the Giro d'Italia was unveiled.  The 2017 route will start in Southern Italy, on the island of Sardinia.  The race will work its way North concluding in Milan after three breathtaking weeks of racing.

The next few Lucha Vino matchups will feature Casa Smith Italian inspired wines taking on a bevy of Italian challengers.

First up, this week's matchup features a Washington Barbera from Casa Smith taking on an Italian challenger from the Barbera d'Alba DOC.

2014 Casa Smith Barbera v. 2013 G.D. Vajra Barbera d'Alba

Washington Barbera vs. Piemonte

The past two weeks have featured several major races in Northern Italy.  Milan San Remo is one of the biggest single day classics on the pro racer's calendar.  What makes the race unique is the distance.  Milan San Remo is the longest race of the season at 298 km.  The Pogio and Cipressa are well known climbs that come near the finish of the race.  Even though these hills are given special reverence, they rarely make a substantial difference in the outcome of the race.

This year was somewhat different.  There was a crash near the base of the Cipressa that caught out the eventual winner, Arnaud Demare, the first Frenchman to win La Classicissima in 21 years.  The issue at hand is the question: Did he, or Didn't he?  There is a controversy surrounding how Demare was able to reconnect with the lead group after being caught behind the crash on the Cipressa.  His race data suggests that Demare recorded the fastest time up the Cipressa.  Sprinters aren't known for their hill climbing capabilities.  They are known for occasionally getting a favorable tow up a hill by their team car.  We may never know the truth.  Unfortunately, this could leave a dark shadow over Demare's victory. 

This week's challenge salutes the first of the Spring Classic Monuments with a matchup that features Washington Barbera taking on Piemonte.

2013 Hard Row to Hoe Barbera vs. 2013 Etorre Germano Barbera d'Alba

WA Barbera v. Lombardia

The Giro d'Italia kicks off on May 9th in Belfast.  Wait. What?!  Belfast?  You might be saying "I don't remember an Italian town named Belfast!"  You would be correct.  This year's race starts off with three stages in Ireland before the racers transfer to Southern Italy.

Like many of the pros, I was hanging out last week putting the finishing touches on my form for the big race.  I chose to hang out in Northern Italy.  In Lombardia to be exact, a wine region just across the border from the Tour du Romandie, a major Tour de France tune up race held in Switzerland.  Did you know that Switzerland only exports 2% of their wines?  Its true.  One more reason I was hanging out in Lombardia...

This week's challenge features a Barbera from the Oltrepo Pavese DOC taking on a Washington State Barbera from the Yakima Valley.

2011 Cantina di Casteggio Bronis Barbera v. 2008 Cavatappi Barbera

California Barbera v. Piedmont

This past week we had two, that's right TWO, top level Stage Races happening at the same time on two different continents.  The Giro d' Italia continued with its second week of racing and the Tour of California countered with 8 high powered races from San Diego to Santa Rosa.

I called in my expert from the South (California, that is) to deliver a Battle Royale featuring California Barbera tangling with Barbera from the Homeland - Italy.  So, here it is.  Without further ado, the Main Event.  Brought to you by Foxall...

I’m really excited to be guesting on Lucha Vino’s blog again.  When I dropped him a line to point out that this might be a first—two stage races in great wine country at the same time—he immediately took me up on the idea of a Tour of California v. Giro matchup.  Sure, lots of cycling races travel through great wine country—France, Spain, Europe, Australia all have major stage races—but two at one time!  

Then I learned that Lucha had already stolen California’s thunder by pitting our grape—our grape, I tell you!—Zinfandel against its Italian counterpart Primitivo.  I could have been crushed.

But there’s not just one Italian grape in California.  The first major Californian wine makers were people like Robert Mondavi and the Gallos.  Just recently, the last of their generation, Frank Indelicato of Delicato Family Wines, left us. 

Those aren’t French or Spanish names, my friends, and Italian varieties were planted all over the place back in the day, at least when you could tell what was growing where.  Not all of them did well, and you’d be hard pressed to find any old-vine Nebbiolo or Dolcetto.  There’s a smattering of Sangiovese (an ex-girlfriend of mine once noted that Mount Diablo, where Stage 7 of the California tour ended today, looks amazingly like Chianti), but not much of it is good. (One huge exception:  Two Mile Polesky-Lentz Sangiovese.)

But those old Italian farmers drank Barbera, and eventually a lot of it wound up in the Central Valley.  Grown for volume, most of it wasn’t very good.  But up in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada, they grow some excellent examples.  So, tonight’s match—think of it as the undercard to the Zin v. Primitivo with a couple middleweights-- pits a Barbera from Amador County, California, against an established grappler from Piedmont, in the foothills of the Alps.

2010 Montevina Winery Amador County Barbera v. 2009 Marchesidi Barolo Ruvei Barebera d’Alba

Washington Barbera v. Piedmont

The Giro d'Italia finished up in Northern Italy last weekend passing through Piedmont or Piemonte, one of the most famous Italian wine regions.  The final three days of racing were extremely demanding with two huge mountain stages on Friday and Saturday followed by an Individual Time Trial on Sunday.  The General Classification was so close that the final result was in question until the completion of the Time Trial in Milan.

This Giro was a series of firsts including the first Grand Tour win by a Canadian - Ryder Hesjedal, first Grand Tour win for Garmin Baracuda and the first Giro d'Italia put on by new race director Michele Acquarone.

This week's Lucha Vino match features its own trifecta with an Old World Barbera grappling with two New World opponents.  One from Washington the other from Oregon.  Both featuring Washington grapes.

2008 IULI Rossore Barbera v. 2007 Hard Row to Hoe Shameless Hussy Barbera And 2009 Cana's Feast Barbera

Washington Barbera v. Italy

The Giro d' Italia wrapped up this week with some grueling mountain passes and mountain top finishes in Nothern Italy.  The overall race lead has been squarely in the pocket of Alberto Contador for the past 2 weeks.  The riders have still been battling for second and third place and stage victories so the racing has still been exciting.  Following the Giro route to the North, this week's match pits a Washington state Barbera against Italy.

Washington State Barbera from the Wahluke Slope  v. Piedmont

Tranche Cellars 2006 Barbera v.  2007 Azienda Agricol Reverdito Michele Barbera D'Alba Butti

Tale of the tape

2006 Tranche Cellars Barbera

Barbera from the Northridge and Sagemoor vineyards in Wahluke Slope AVA.  Tranche Cellars is one of Mike Corliss' wineries.  Their website is nice enough to tell you Tranche means "slice" or "share."  Unfortunately, it might as well mean mystery since they do not share any more information about their wines.  Corliss implies a top notch pedigree, but this Luchador goes into the match as a bit of a mystery.  Purchased from Full Pull wines for 17.99

2007 Michele Reverdito Barbera

100% Barbera from Piedmont D'Alba Butti D.O.C.  If you can read Italian you will be able to unravel the mystery of our Italian combatant.
Purchased for $27.50 at Bin 41 - Thanks for helping me make the Luchador selections again this week.

This is certainly a week for mystery.  Let the Barbera Battle begin!

Round 1.  First Opening:

On first opening the Tranche Cellars has a nose of warm red fruit, coffee and a hint of pepper.  The palate has red fruit, tart cedar and coffee bean with a dry finish that repeats the notes of coffee bean.

The Michele Reverdito has a nose of sweet and sour cherry with a bit of spiciness.  The palate is dry with lots of red brambly fruit and a tart bramble berry finish.

These luchadors are very closely matched, both showing promise right from the beginning. 

Round 1 is too close to call.  Half a point to each of these mysterious foes.

Round 2.  One hour after Opening

The Tranche is really building some power - the nose is showing rich dark fruit and currant character with a palate of currant, black cherry and coffee with a bit of menthol that ushers in a big finish of cocoa and spice intermingled with dark stone fruit.

The Reverdito is stepping up, but not quite to the level of the Tranche.  The nose is developing floral notes with big bright cherry.  The palate is showing similar notes of big chewy cherry and cedar baking spice that leads into a finish that is just slightly tart with cinnamon and clove spices.

Round 2 is another close one.  Both luchadors are showing their strength.  Reverdito is big and bright.  Tranche is big and bold.  A very slight edge to Tranche winning round 2 for bringing a bigger and bolder attack into the ring for this round.

Round 3. One day later

The Tranche Cellars entrant is still going strong with a nose that is now showing leather, coffee, peat, currant and spice box.  The palate is lush and velvety with currant the dominant characteristic that still shows the bit of menthol before moving on to a dry tart cedar red fruit finish.

The Reverdito has added some more power to its repertoire.  The nose is bolder with currant and logan berry spice and a bit of mineral.  The palate is displaying similar notes of currant and dark berries with some cocoa that finishes with notes of semi-sweet chocolate.

These combatants have both held up under pressure and their form is showing one day later.  Both have continued to develop and are showing some new skillz in the final round.

Round 3 is another close call and goes to the Italian challenger for upping the ante.  It wasn't by much, but enough to finish with a flourish and leave us with a dead even bout.  Each luchador having earned 1 1/2 points. 

Wrap up and over all observations

I'm not sure how I feel about having a bout end in a draw.  I can't find anything to fault either one of this week's contestants.  With a nod to Italian style, Mario Cipollini and the Giro d'Italia I am awarding 1/2 a point for style to the Reverdito for their label which easily outdistances the Tranche Cellars label in the style department.

After exercising my rights as the event organizer to apply arbitrary rules the Reverdito finishes this bout on top by the slimmest of margins having gained the edge with an additional point awarded for style.  Final score: Reverdito 2, Tranche 1 1/2

I rate both of these wines an 88. 

This match was frustrating from an informational perspective.  Much like a Lucha Libre match, both combatants stepped into the wrestling ring with an air of mystery.  Hiding their true character behind their wrestling masks.  Unraveling the mystery of these wines as they evolved over time was fun.  It was also a great introduction to the Barbera grape for me.